Dreiburgenblick, Rhine

Many people are familiar with the high concentration of picturesque medieval castles on the most famous section of the Rhine between Koblenz and Mainz.  A drive along either side of the river or a cruise down it is a visual feast which includes not only these castles but also charming little German villages and, of course, the vineyards that the area is so famous for.  Because this area seems to be on everyone’s itinerary, it can be very touristy; regardless, it is really worth exploring.  When planning a visit, it is important to know that the only bridges across the river in this area are at Koblenz and Mainz; however, the many ferry crossings south of Koblenz and north of Mainz make going back and forth easy and convenient – a good thing because both banks of the river have lots to offer.

For years, I have made it a point of visiting this valley when I am anywhere near the area.  The Rhine is busy waterway with lots of boat traffic – cruise boats, barges carrying all manner of goods, ferries and private pleasure craft.  Most people make for Rudesheim – and there is no denying that it is a lot of fun but it can be very crowded and touristy.  The restaurants in Drosselgasse (one of the village’s small alleys) serve typical German fare and many have live entertainment.  If you walk up to the top of the village, it is possible to take a chairlift further up the hillside to the Niederwaldenkmal, a statue celebrating the establishment of the German empire after the Franco-Prussian war.  The views as you ride up the hillside are spectacular – castles, the river, vineyards and Bingen, the town on the opposite side.

Bacharach

Lesser known is the village just north of there called Assmanshausen – the only village on the Rhine producing red wine.  Bacharach on the other side of the river is charming and has lovely little shops and restaurants.  It is easy to spend a couple of hours wandering around this village.  Also worth a stop is St. Goar (on the west side and opposite St. Goarhausen).  One obscure place that is not easy to find but definitely worth the effort is called Dreiburgenblick (translated:  three castle view) on the top of the hill above St. Goarhausen in a little village called Patersberg.  You take the Nastatterstrasse (No. 274) and turn left at the intersection posted for Patersberg.  You drive through the village and will come to a dead-end.  Park your car, get out, walk a little way down the hill and savour one of the most spectacular views in this area.  Few people are ever there and that makes it even more special.

While you are exploring this area, try to make time to tour at least one of the castles.  Burg Rheinfels is mostly ruins but one of the largest and very interesting; Marksburg, not far from Koblenz, has a guided tour and is one of my favourites; and, there is the lovely little Pfalz which sits in the middle of the river.

The Rhine valley is has enough hotels, gasthaus (inns), pensions and private accommodation to meet anyone’s tastes.  Since 1984, my pick has been the Hotel Krone in Kestert (on the east side) about halfway between Koblenz and Rudesheim.  I have lost count of the number of times I have stayed here and I have never been dissappointed – the rooms are comfortable and the food is delicious and well-priced.